part II: machu picchu.

waking at 3am to pouring rain, we quickly dressed and headed to the bus station. still pitch black, there were already a few people waiting in line. we were in the first handful, ensuring ourselves a seat on the first bus out.. which didn't leave for another 2 hours. so there we sat. through the darkness you could make out figures in rain gear, passing the station on foot; adamant on trekking up the steep mountainside in the downpour.

the first bus left at 5:30.. the 25 minute ride bringing you up the windy roads and arriving 5 minutes before the gates open. putting on our ponchos, we blended into the sea of multi-colored plastic all anticipating what lay ahead.. our tour was scheduled to meet at 7:45 so we had almost 2 hours to wander the ruins unaccompanied, with a handful of other go-getters.

these first few hours were very special. the light drizzle of rain.. fog rolling in thick and then diminishing as quickly as it had formed.. the ominous mountains standing guard on all sides.. the rushing river far below. you could really sense the power of the place. several times i looked around and could see nobody.. i was discovering it solo. which i really believe is how the experience is - it's a very personal one. words cannot describe the feelings.

meeting up with our tour group, we were told a brief history and our guide explained the purposes of the different buildings and temples.. he was very informative and it was entirely in english so it was enjoyable. (the day before we had to hear everything in spanish, and were later filled in with english.. i think missing quite a bit of dialogue..)

machu picchu was built in 1438. it was discovered in 1911 by an american in search of the lost city of el dorado.. he was hunting for gold and silver. asking everybody he came across if they knew where he could find the city, he was continually rejected.. until he came across a little boy playing with delicate ceramics.. he asked the boy where he had found them, and the boy told him about the mountain. he naively led the american there for 1 sole (30 cents), and machu picchu was on the map. this american took several relics from the city and brought them back to yale university to be studied, promising to return them.. 100 years later, these relics are still in america, and the peruvians are still hoping for the day they will be returned.

after our guided tour was over we did the waynapicchu hike with an english and scottish couple we befriended. keeping a steady pace, we reached the top after an hour.. some spots being fairly gruelling, especially after the rain which made it a bit slippery. the fog cleared, we were allowed a breathtaking view of the entire city on the mountain below. staying at the top exploring for some time, we did the trek down again.. and upon reaching machu picchu, continued on foot back down to aguas calientes.

our knees and minds blown.. we relaxed at the mineral pools for an hour before heading back to the train station, then back on a bus.. and finally reaching cusco after an exhausting and exhilarating two days.